Yes, the Galapagos Islands are a great reason to visit Ecuador however, there is also SO much more on offer in this country. Sacred snow peaked volcanoes, opalescent blue lagoons and intriguing indigenous communities, are just a few of the things that this tiny country boasts.

During my time in Ecuador, I decided to save the Galapagos Islands for when I could actually afford to do it properly and instead, went on a quest to uncover what the rest of Ecuador has to offer. Enter Cotopaxi National Park…

What is Cotopaxi National Park?

Cotopaxi National Park is a sprawling landscape of diverse scenery located around 2 hours South of the capital, Quito. Despite covering approximately 128 square miles, the main draw to this National Park is the impressive active volcano, Cotopaxi, which protrudes from the otherwise flat vista.

Standing at a staggering 5,897m above sea level, this snow peaked beauty can be reached by huffing and puffing your way up to the windy refuge or, can be enjoyed from afar with a cup of coffee and a slice of banana cake at The Secret Garden…

What is The Secret Garden, Cotopaxi?

The Secret Garden is accommodation located in the ass end of nowhere.

Owned and built by Australians, Tarquin and Katherine and run mostly by outdoorsy backpacking volunteers, this eco-friendly home is a cosy refuge where you can disconnect from the outside world (there’s no wifi – dum dum dummm) and reconnect with nature and other travellers.

The Secret Garden offers multiple room options to accommodate all visitors and budgets including dorm rooms, private cabañas, ‘birdhouses’ and their ridiculously cute hobbit holes. Nonetheless,  whichever room you go for, you will always benefit from the one running theme at The Secret Garden. THIS VIEW…

Oh, and the jacuzzi, cute puppies, amazing food and toasty fires…

How does it work?

The easiest way to book a stay at The Secret Garden, Cotopaxi is to book one of their packages online.

I booked a 3 day, 2 night package in a dorm room with a fireplace for $95. This included transport to The Secret Garden, Cotopaxi from their sister hostel in Quito, 2 nights accommodation, 3 meals per day including a two course dinner, snacks, unlimited coffee and banana bread, use of the jacuzzi/sunroom, a free 2 hour guided walk to nearby waterfalls, a free 6 hour guided trek to the summit of Pasochoa volcano and a free day to book onto any additional activities you may want to do.

If you opt not to book a package, it’ll cost $40 per night in a dorm excluding the transfer from Quito and any of the free activities.

The Secret Garden is like a home away from home and all guests eat, relax and socialise together in the living room and dining area.

How to get to The Secret Garden, Cotopaxi

The best way to reach The Secret Garden, Cotopaxi is to jump on the shuttle from The Secret Garden hostel in Quito, which is included when you book one of their package deals or, costs $5. This transfer leaves the hostel at 10am everyday and must be booked and confirmed in advance.

If you are travelling up from the South of Ecuador, hop on a bus to Quito and get off at Machachi. You will be able to organise for the shuttle to pick you up from here on its way from Quito.

Our dorm

Our dorm room was super cosy. Squeezing in around 10 people over two floors with one en suite, it was basic yet, had everything we could have needed for a comfy nights sleep – beams, blankets and a blazing hot fire.

Food

Brekkie, lunch and dinner were all served family-style at the dinner table in the main chalet-like lodge. Whilst I was there, we ate everything from pancakes, eggs and yoghurt to soup, sandwiches and sticky toffee pud. It was hearty, well-cooked grub and we never went hungry!

Activities

The two free treks included in The Secret Garden’s packages are well worth doing.

On our first afternoon, we followed one of the enthusiastic volunteers to explore the surrounding area of where the hostel is located. We visited multiple waterfalls, waded through pools of water and even had the opportunity to climb up the side of a waterfall – I was very grateful for the wellies they provided us with pre-trek!

The next day we set out to conquer the Pasochoa summit. Voted one of the best treks in Ecuador, this trip will take your breath away – in more ways than one. Standing at 4,220m above sea level, the altitude is tough however, when you make it to the summit, the gobsmacking view across Quito and beyond will make that pain melt away. I did this trek with a group of 40 – 60 year olds so don’t write it off straight away if you’re not the fittest, just keep in mind that it might take a bit longer than 5 hours (we did it in 8 LOL).

There are also additional activities you can book onto at an additional cost on your ‘free day’. These include trekking to the refuge at the top of Cotopaxi ($30/$35 if you want to bike back down) and horse riding ($35-40pp) and can be booked while you’re there.

Looking out over Cotopaxi everyday could never get old and The Secret Garden’s activities, food and homely feel are the perfect way to explore and experience this National Park to the full!

Please note: this is not a sponsored post and, as always, all thoughts and opinions are my own!

However, after much consideration, we decided that we were in no way fit enough to survive said trek and opted for another form of adventure where we wouldn’t be doing the leg work…

Salento is a charming small town located around 10 hours South of both Medellín and Bogotá and is best known for its coffee production and nearby Cocora Valley. Surrounded by rolling hills of exciting flora and fauna, a visit to this town would not be complete without getting out and exploring its countryside.

After a little bit of research, we decided that the best way to explore Salento’s landscape was by horse. Lizzie and I have both grown up riding horses so were really excited to get back in the saddle and see what was hiding in the area’s coffee region by hoof.

A quick Google search came up with Cabalgatas San Pablo – a well reputable company with fantastic TripAdvisor reviews. We had a quick browse of their website and then fired off an email to book a hack for the next day.

The company offers four different hack options that cover different sights and areas and are tailored for different riding abilities. We opted for Cascada el Peñon as we had already done a coffee tour elsewhere in Colombia and wanted to spend more time amongst the scenery on the horses.

We were collected by our wonderful guide for the day at 10am and were led to the stables, which were around a 5 minute walk from our hostel. The stables were well-kept and after watching a few minutes of the Colombian football game with the lovely family who live at the stables, we were shown to our rides for the morning…

Saddles tightened and balance established, we set off into the wilderness.

Within minutes we were surrounded by rolling mountains and coffee plantations. The horses knew exactly what they were doing and my friend, who didn’t have much experience riding, felt comfortable and confident that his horse was not going to bolt off with him.

We stopped off at a coffee plantation for a quick cuppa of Salento’s finest brew before hopping back on the horses to continue our adventure.

From here on out, the trip was the definition of a hack. We waded through cascading rivers, cantered up and down mountains and trotted through local communities until we arrived at the hack finale – Cascada el Peñon.

We jumped off our trusty horses and hobbled our way along slippery walkways until we reached a small waterfall. Although the highlight of this trip is definitely the horse riding itself, this hidden waterfall is a great addition to the journey and really does remind you of how far into the middle of nowhere you’ve come.

We went back to the stables a different route, cantering up and down on our weary bruised bums. On our return, we looked over at the next group of backpackers getting ready to embark on their exhilarating adventure with pure envy – they were about to have such a ball!

We then reluctantly waved goodbye to our guide and horses and went into Salento town centre to join the hoards of Colombian’s salsaing in celebration in the streets – they’d won the football!

This trip is a BARGAIN. The 4 hour hack cost a minor 60,000 COP (£15) and I could not recommend it enough. It was definitely a highlight of all our time in Central and South America.

Have you ever gone horse riding in Colombia? What was your highlight? Let me know!

Nestled high up amongst mystic clouds and towering rock formations, a trip to Peru would not be complete without ticking off Machu Picchu.

However, planning a trip to Machu Picchu can be somewhat overwhelming. There are so many different options for so many different budgets that it’s hard to know, which option is best for you. 

When I arrived in Cusco, I had just over a week left of travelling and less than £100 in my bank account. Meaning, I needed to visit Machu Picchu as cheaply as possible. 

You can visit the wonder on a tour or, on your own. For the sake of this post I’m going to be explaining how to do it on your own, the cheapest way possible. The journey begins in Cusco and takes you to Aguas Calientes – the gateway to Machu Picchu. Here’s my step-by-step budget backpacker’s guide to visiting this gem.

Step 1 – Get to Cusco

Once upon a time, Cusco was the Inca capital of Peru. 

Today, evidence of the Incas is sprinkled everywhere. From the ancient Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman on the outskirts of the city to the pre historic buildings that give Cusco its intoxicating charm, most voyages to Machu Picchu begin here. 

I LOVED Cusco and would recommend staying there for at least 2-3 nights before heading off to Machu Picchu. This time in the city will not only give you time to explore its charismatic cobbled streets and eat and shop in its extensive San Pedro market but, it’ll also allow for you to adjust to the altitude. 

Step 2 – Buy your ticket to Machu Picchu 

Only 2,500 people are allowed to enter Machu Picchu each day and tickets must be bought for one of two slots (6am – 12pm) and (12pm – 5.30pm). 

You can buy tickets online or, at the Ministry of Culture building in Cusco or Aguas Calientes (note: it is closed on Sundays). Tickets cost 152 soles (approx £36/$46) for entry and you will need your passport to buy your ticket. There are different ticket options if you want to climb either Machu Picchu Mountain or Huayna Picchu so check this out for more info on alternative tickets. 

When we arrived in Cusco we were informed by our hostel that the morning slot was sold out for the following five days so our only option was to visit in the afternoon. We bought our ticket the morning before we went to Machu Picchu and had no problems however, I would recommend buying your tickets ASAP to avoid disappointment. 

Although we were annoyed we couldn’t be at Machu Picchu for sunrise, we decided it was a blessing in disguise. The morning slot is when all the tours visit meaning, by the time 12pm hits everyone has gone back to Aguas Calientes. We had no problems having to queue or fight for photo spots, which is rare at a Wonder of the World. 

Step 3 – Book accommodation in Aguas Calientes

Once you have secured your ticket, it’s important to book accommodation in Aguas Calientes – a tourist hub at the foot of the entrance to Machu Picchu. We stayed for two nights in two different hostels – Hostal Machu Wasi ($15 a night each for a private room including brekkie) and Supertramp Hostel ($12 a night each for a dorm bed including brekkie), which I would both highly recommend.

The prices in Aguas Calientes are very inflated so expect to pay a little over the average for accommodation. 

Step 4 – Get a minibus to Hydroelectrica 

Aguas Calientes is only accessible by train or foot. The train is very expensive so, the cheapest option to get there is by a 7 hour minibus to nearby Hydroelectrica from Cusco, which costs approx 60 soles return (£14/$18). The minibus can be booked at any hostel or travel agent in Cusco and will pick you up from your hostel at around 7.30/8am.

Be warned, this journey is pretty terrifying so, if you’re scared of heights, try to tire yourself out before the trip so you can take a nap…

Step 5 – Walk along the train track from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes

Once you’re dropped in Hydroelectrica, head to the train track. Walking along the train track may sound weird/dangerous but it’s something that a huge number of backpackers and locals do and there is a path most of the way. The walk takes around 3 hours and is mostly flat.

Keep an eye out for the bottom entrance to Machu Picchu as you will walk past it on route.

Step 6 – Walk from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu entrance

From Aguas Calientes it’s a steep 2 hour walk to the entrance of Machu Picchu – it’s tough but bearable and treats you to some fabulous views along the way. Once you arrive at the entrance, there will be an abundance of tour guides offering their services so if you want a guide, here’s the place to barter a price and get one.

Top tip: to save money on grub, go to the local market next door to the bus stop in Aguas Calientes and get a meal to take away before you walk up. A local dish will cost between 5-10 soles (£1-3).

Step 7 – Getting back to Cusco 

When you book your minibus to Hydroelectrica, you will also have to tell the company what date and time you would like to return to Cusco. Most buses leave at around 2.30 – 3.30pm. We waited for our bus in the same spot we were dropped off and were nearly left as apparently we weren’t in the right place. Make sure you ask your bus driver where you need to wait to be collected so you don’t have the same problem as us – we’re going to blame it on the language barrier…

Planning a trip to Machu Picchu is a daunting task, but one you won’t regret.

When you’re soaking up the view with a llama by your side, the challenge and time it takes to get there on a budget only makes it that bit more rewarding! Have you ever visited Machu Picchu on a budget? Did you do anything differently? Let me know!

From the humid, colourful colonial city of Cartagena on the Caribbean coast to the cold coffee region of Quindío in the South, Colombia is hugged by two oceans, making the country’s weather, food, culture and people different from place to place.

This diversity alongside Colombia’s tragic history, makes a visit to this country an overwhelming treat for all the senses and is why it’s at the top of most gringos’ South American to-do lists.

The Caribbean Coast in the North of the country is where you’ll find hot weather, crystalline waters and luscious National Parks, making a visit to the coast a must on any trip to Colombia.

Here’s my itinerary for two weeks on the coast.

Cartagena – 4 nights

If you’re starting your trip on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, likelihood is you’ll fly or catch a boat into Cartagena.

This colonial city oooooozes sophistication, romance and charm and is the perfect introduction to Colombia.

Ancient shabby-chic buildings of all colours adorned in picturesque wooden balconies and tangled cascading flowers line the streets. Horses and carriages strut around the old city constantly reminding its’ visitors of the city’s colonial history and exceptional street art is plastered around the hip areas of the city telling stories of the trauma and triumph the country has been through.

As well as its charismatic architecture, Cartagena also boasts a great variety of food choices, eclectic nightlife and walking opportunities to keep you busy for days on end.

Be sure to book onto a walking tour, go out salsa’ing and visit La Popa hill for great views across the city (it’s bigger than you’d think).

Buses to Santa Marta leave from Cartagena’s bus station regularly and take around 4/5 hours. Alternatively, you can book a shuttle through most hostels, which are a little more pricey but faster.

Santa Marta – 2 nights

Santa Marta is most commonly visited as a stop over point to get to neighbouring hotspots Minca, Tayrona National Park and the beaches on the coast however, in my opinion (people may argue this), a day or two here would not be wasted.

We’d heard a lot of horror stories about this city so were a little reluctant to stay there nonetheless, we booked into RUA Hostel and put aside two days for tanning time by their rooftop pool (this hostel is divine) and were pleasantly surprised!

Although Santa Marta was definitely the most sketchy place we’d been since arriving in Colombia, it still had the same charm as most other towns on the coast as well as some great food options. Check out Maharaja Indian Restaurant for excellent thalis or, Merkabar/Welcome Restaurant for great seafood and service.

My recommendation: if you visit Santa Marta, enjoy it in the day and be cautious at night.

From Santa Marta, you can get a bus to Minca or anywhere else further up the coast for next to nothing.

Minca – 3 nights

Minca is a breath of fresh air from the humidity of the coastline.

A small town snuggled around a 45 minute drive up into the mountains from Santa Marta, Minca is the perfect spot on the Caribbean coast to unwind and be at one with nature. From long treks and cascading waterfalls to coffee plantations and bird watching, it’s more than easy to fill at least three days relaxing in Minca.

Stay at Casa Relax, which is sat right next to a waterfall yet only a fifteen minute walk into the town and be sure to eat at Lazy Cat for great burgers and cocktails.

Colectivo taxis (minivans) leave from Santa Marta’s central market for Minca when full and cost approx 8,000 pesos.

Tayrona National Park – 2 nights

Tayrona is a wild, well-laid-out National Park located between Santa Marta and Palomino. Hosting a countless number of walkways and a vast expanse of diverse flora and fauna, it is possible to spend anywhere between one day and one week in this park – the choice is yours.

There are two options when visiting Tayrona – staying in a tent/hammock/up-market hotel within the park for as long as you fancy or, staying outside the park and visiting for the day. We opted for the latter.

There are clear walkways to get to where you want to. The most popular route leads you through diverse terrain, past Arrefices, La Piscina and finally to, Cabo San Juan, the most popular beach in the park. We don’t know whether we were unlucky on the day we chose to visit but, the final beach reminded us a bit of a Colombian Butlins – it was swarming with holidaying families and was far from the deserted Caribbean beach we had envisioned…

I feel we would have seen and gained more from our experience if we’d have stayed in the park for a night. Nonetheless, the accommodation we ended up staying at on the outside of the park – Eco Hostal Yuluku – I would highly recommend.

From the road running past Tayrona, hop on any of the many buses heading further along the coast and ask to get off in Palomino.

Palomino – 3 nights

Palomino is a small beach town located around 1 hour from Santa Marta. Still very underdeveloped, Palomino is mostly made up of one dusty road dotted with restaurants and shops leading its occupants to the beach.

Palomino is a hippie haven and is mostly frequented by crystal-lovers and backpackers seeking some chill out time and sunshine. During our time in Palomino we stayed in The Dreamer Hostel and treated these couple of days as a holiday doing very little. Some backpackers opt to hire tubes and spend the day bobbing along the nearby river or, simply spend their time lying on the beach sipping piña coladas until the sunsets.

Whether you choose to fly or bus your way further South, you’ll need to catch a bus back to Santa Marta to hop on further transport.

Have you ever been to Colombia’s Caribbean coast? What would you add to this itinerary?