Central America – Lydia Giles https://lydiagiles.com Travel | Food | Culture Fri, 24 Mar 2023 19:06:14 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.2 https://lydiagiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/cropped-Favicon-PhotoRoom.png-PhotoRoom-32x32.png Central America – Lydia Giles https://lydiagiles.com 32 32 The Best Way to Enjoy El Chiflon Waterfalls and Lagunas de Montebello in Chiapas, Mexico https://lydiagiles.com/the-best-way-to-enjoy-el-chiflon-waterfalls-and-lagunas-de-montebello-in-chiapas-mexico Sun, 19 Mar 2023 00:15:43 +0000 https://lydiagiles.com/?p=20575 I’m a bit confused why more people aren’t adding the city of Comitan to their Mexico itinerary – but their loss is my gain!

Comitan is a Pueblo Magico city located around 2 hours South of the very popular San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas. It’s within a 1 hour drive of both the popular sites of El Chiflon waterfalls and Lagunas de Montebello but yet it’s somehow stayed off of the backpacker trail – I saw zero other tourists during my 2 night stay in the city!

Most travellers tend to visit the waterfalls and the lakes on a longgggg (but cheap) day trip from San Cristobal. However, the idea of sitting on a bus for longer than exploring the sites didn’t float my boat so I looked for an alternative. A couple of nights stay in Comitan seemed like the perfect solution!

If you’d also like to visit these spots without a tour, keep reading! I’ve included everything you need to know about how to get to each place and how much it’ll cost.

How to get to Comitan from San Cristobal de las Casas?

You can get an ADO or OCC bus from San Cristobal de las Casas bus station to Comitan. Buses run roughly every hour (check the ADO website or App to confirm times), take around 2 – 2 1/2 hours and cost 72 MXN (approx £3.30) each way.

Where to stay in Comitan?

As I mentioned, Comitan isn’t built up for tourism at all, so there are no hostels. Nonetheless, there are lots of different hotels to choose from for varying budgets – I managed to bag myself a private room in a hotel for less than any hostel I’d stayed at in Mexico!

I stayed at Hotel Clasico Colonial for 211 MXN (£9.80) per night. It was very basic but it’s in an excellent location (1 block from the main square) and my room had an en suite. There’s no kitchen or drinking water available but it did the job for a couple of nights!

Where to eat in Comitan?

If you’re looking for a cheap bite to eat, there are loads of street stall stands scattered around the main square of the city offering up Mexican classics as well as, a few local Comitan dishes. One of these is cascara preparada (pictured above) – a giant wheat puff topped with corn, shredded carrot, cucumber, sour cream, cheese and salsa.

Alternatively, if you’d rather a sit down restaurant experience, try Ta Bonita (there’s also a cheaper taqueria attached to this restaurant), Tatalampo or Restaurante Doña Chelo.

How to get to the El Chiflon waterfalls from Comitan?

Getting to El Chiflon waterfalls is super easy. Head to the main road where the ADO/OCC bus stop is and you’ll find loads of tour agencies offering collectivos to El Chiflon. When I went (March 2023) a ticket was 40 MXN each way and the journey took around 1 hour.

The collectivo will drop you off on the main road, so you’ll need to walk for 10/15 minutes to the main entrance or take a tuk tuk. On the way, you’ll come across the main entrance where you need to buy your ticket (80 MXN) and then a further 5 minutes walk you’ll spot the museum, toilets and shops.

The entrance to the waterfalls feels a bit like a theme park but once you’re in and lay your eyes on the silky turquoise water of the waterfalls, you will not regret your visit. There’s a very clear path from the entrance, which leads you to alongside all of the waterfalls until you reach the big finale – Cascada Velo de Novia. There are a couple of more viewpoints you can go to from here but I personally didn’t think they were worth the extra incline and sweat.

Instead, head back down to your favourite waterfall, whack out your book and a picnic lunch and just relax and soak up the oasis of El Chiflon. There are also a few spots where you can swim a bit closer to the entrance.

To return to Comitan, you will need to go back to where you were dropped off and stand on the other side of the road to flag a collectivo. I only had to wait 10/15 mins until one arrived.

How to get to Lagunas de Montebello from Comitan?

Getting to Lagunas de Montobello is just as simple as it is to get to El Chiflon.

You can get a 1 hour collectivo from here and just let them know which lake you’d like to be dropped off at. I opted for Laguna Pojoj as I wanted to do the Sendero El Perol hike, which takes you through the forest to a number of INCREDIBLE viewpoints of the lakes. You have to pay 30 MXN to enter the area and it takes around 1 1/2 hours each way to complete the walk with stops.

I honestly can’t recommend this hike enough. I didn’t see a single other person during, which meant I had each viewpoint and the end point (a lil patch of grass by the river) all to myself and it’s not too hard considering how high up you go.

After I finished the hike I went to view Laguna Pojoj from the main entrance. This is where the tour buses tend to go so it is a lot more commercialised and I couldn’t help but feel a lil’ bit smug about the incredible experience and views I’d just experienced on my own.

When you’re ready to head home, go back to the road and flag a collectivo going to Comitan. I only had to wait 5 minutes until one went by. I paid 70 MXN to get to the lagoon but 55 MXN to get back. I’m not sure whether this was to do with the quality of bus or where I was picked up/dropped off but it’s worth noting the price may vary.

Taking a long weekend trip to visit the El Chiflon Waterfalls and Lagunas de Montebello from San Cristobal de las Casas was definitely a highlight of my time in Mexico and I would 100% recommend visiting them from Comitan rather than on a long day trip.

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A Guide of Where to Stay in Puerto Escondido, Mexico https://lydiagiles.com/a-guide-of-where-to-stay-in-puerto-escondido-mexico Sun, 26 Feb 2023 23:40:04 +0000 https://lydiagiles.com/?p=18225 Puerto Escondido on the West Coast of Mexico is THE place to be at the moment, and it’s easy to see why…

Start your day with a hearty plate of chilaquilas at El Cafecito, lounge on the sugary sand of Playa Carrizalillo with a coco frio before flocking to the beaches of Zicatela or La Punta to watch the sunset whilst sipping on happy hour mezcalitas. Sounds tempting eh?

This surfer town’s relaxed atmosphere, pristine beaches and excellent restaurants, bars and nightlife tend to captivate backpackers from the get go making it a hard place to leave.

Before I arrived in Puerto Escondido, I had NO idea how big and spread out the area is. I naively thought it would be a small hub of dusty roads and a beach – boy was I wrong! Puerto Escondido is pretty vast for a beach town and is made up of four main areas, each of which offer something different. During my last 2 weeks here (I told you it’s hard to leave), I’ve stayed in most of the areas, so have compiled this guide to help you choose where’s best for you to base yourself!

La Punta

Starting at the most Southernly point of the beach you’ll find the bohemian surfer hub of Puerto Escondido – La Punta. This long stretch of beach is great for surfing and tends to draw a younger, backpacker crowd.

The main sandy street in La Punta is compact and lined with trendy (but mostly affordable) bars, restaurants, cafes and shops. Walking down the street in the day you can’t help but be charmed by the thatched dry palm roofs and lush overgrown foliage dotted with brightly coloured flowers.

After sunset, La Punta is the place to go to enjoy live music. Whether it’s bands, open mic night or karaoke, you’ll always find a cacophony of music drawing you into different places. Enjoy a cocktail or three whilst listening to a Latino brass band or try out your salsa moves in a live salsa class. There’s so much here to keep you entertained until 11pm when everything closes down and the party animals head to Zicatela to continue the night…

Where to stay: Casa Punta Hostel

Where to eat/drink: La Chula Taqueria, Fish Shack La Punta, Cafe Ole, Casa de Burrito, Lychee, Pepe’s Fish Tacos

Zicatela

Zicatela is a 30 minute walk or 5 minute taxi/collectivo ride from La Punta and feels more polished than the other areas on this list. It’s renowned for being the place to party, so tends to be a bit deserted in the daytime – on my first day on the beach I was so confused that I had the whole stretch of sand to myself other than a few skydivers floating above my head. It’s empty in the daytime and then everyone reemerges at sunset in time for happy hour.

Zicatela is quite holidaymaker-y and I found it drew more of an influencer/cliquey crowd but it does offer some nice bars, cafes and restaurants worth checking out.

Where to stay: Selina, Huitzilin Hostal

Where to eat/drink: El Cafecito, Spirulina (also great for yoga), Elephant Garden, Brad’s Split Coconut, Finca Las Nievas, La Mariinera (get the fish tostadas – I had my best meal in Mexico to date here)

Rinconada

Rinconada can be found just below Centro and is close to the best beaches in Puerto Escondido. Playa Manzanillo, Puerto Angelito and Playa Carrizalillo (this is by far the prettiest beach in Puerto Escondido) are all nestled in alcoves so have bluer, more tranquil water ideal for swimming.

Playa Bococho is a vast stretch of beach a bit further North and is where people flock to every evening at 5pm to release baby turtles into the wild. These releases are run by The Vive Mar project, a non-profit organisation ran by volunteers, and costs 150 MXN (approx £7).

I really enjoyed staying in this area. It was in the perfect spot to explore the different beaches each day and has a bit more of a sleepy, expat feel to it than Zicatela and La Punta. If you stay in this area, there’s also a fantastic sunset spot called Mirador Las Tortugas worth visiting.

Where to stay: Vivo Escondido

Where to eat/drink: El Cafecito, Smoked Fish Tacos El Viejo, Al Dente

Centro

If you want to experience the undiluted Mexican side of Puerto Escondido, make sure you stay in or visit Centro. This area is about a 15/20 minute walk North of Rinconada and is a more natural representation of Puerto Escondido pre-tourists (it’s also a lot cheaper).

Like most cities in Mexico, you’ll find a busy market (Benito Juarez), street food stalls and lots of shops, restaurants and bars. You might run out of things to do here quite quickly, so I would recommend staying in Rinconada and walking here for a morning or afternoon to explore.

Where to stay: Puerto Dreams Hostel, La Escondida Puerto Dreams, Tower Bridge Hostel

Where to eat/drink: Benito Juarez Mercado, The JP Bunker, Cafe N’duva

Overview

During my time in Puerto Escondido I stayed in all of these areas except Centro (however I did visit the market here for a morning). If you have time to stay in multiple places, I would recommend staying in La Punta for a few nights and then Rinconada – this will give you the chance to visit all of the above areas and get a proper feel for the many different personalities of Puerto Escondido!

Top top: to get around Puerto Escondido you can hop on a collectivo (pick up trucks with a plastic roof), which shuttle up and down the main road all day for a bargain 10 MXN per ride.

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Taco Time! A Free Taco Walking Tour in Mexico City https://lydiagiles.com/taco-time-a-free-taco-walking-tour-in-mexico-city Fri, 17 Feb 2023 20:13:57 +0000 https://lydiagiles.com/?p=17448 I’m a bit obsessed with free walking tours.

Whenever I arrive in a new country or city, the first thing I book onto is a free walking tour led by a local (I’ve already done four in Mexico)! They’re an amazing way to get your bearings, learn about the history of where you are, tick off a few ‘must see’ attractions and get valuable tips and recommendations from someone who knows the area inside out.

When I first arrived in Mexico City, I was recommended a free walking tour with a difference, a tour focused on tacos. I quickly booked on for the next day – if there’s one thing I love more than a free walking tour, it’s a free walking tour that involves food!

How to Book Onto The Taco Walking Tour 

I booked the taco walking tour with a company called Kactus via GuruWalk. The tour takes place in the trendy neighbourhoods of La Roma and Condesa (around a 15 minute drive from the Historic Centre) every day of the week other than Wednesdays and Sundays and lasts around 2 and a half hours.

On the tour you will learn about the history of La Roma and Condesa, where the taco originated from, street food etiquette in Mexico City and most importantly, what food you must try! We went to three different street food stalls over the 2 and a half hours and our guide made sure there were veggie/vegan options at each stop if needed.

The tour is free, but tacos are not included (expect to pay around 20 – 25 MXN per taco) and a tip for the guide is expected (around 200 MXN is customary).

La Roma and Condesa Neighbourhoods

I met our guide, Daniella, and four other taco enthusiasts at 6.15pm by the Fuente de las Cibeles monument in La Roma. After quick introductions Daniella started telling us about the history of La Roma and Condesa.

“La Roma was a neighbourhood for Mexico City’s upper class to escape the crumbling Centro Historico but in 1985 an earthquake led to the collapse of the area and the wealthy found refuge in different areas of the city. Over the past 10 years or so, this area has become more gentrified and is now a safe area to explore with some of the best street food stalls in the city”.

The damaging history Daniella described was evident as we walked around the neighbourhood – colourful art deco mansions decorated with Juliet balconies draped in cascading ivy sat across the street from barren buildings waiting to be loved. Leafy trees woven with vibrant pink flowers lined the uneven, disturbed pathways and bohemian cafes, restaurants and bars were housed in buildings coated in peeling paint and graffiti.

I wasn’t expecting to learn about these popular neighbourhoods, so it was a great surprise and addition to the rest of the tour!

Street Food Etiquette in Mexico 

Before we went to our first taqueria (this is what Mexicans call restaurants that specialise in tacos), Daniella gave us a quick overview of the history of the taco and explained that ‘taco’ literally means something in the middle of something else. The history of when and where the taco originated from is a tad uncertain but it’s likely they were created by Mexican silver miners in the 18th century.

Daniella also talked us through some really useful street food etiquette in Mexico, which I’ve been utilising ever since. These included:-

– In Mexico you tend to pay after eating your food

– At most stalls you eat standing up – tacos are more of a snack for Mexicans than a meal

– You should always try a salsa before dousing your tacos in it – they all vary in taste and heat

– Different toppings are meant for different dishes

Armed with this very handy information, we were ready to eat!

What Tacos Did We Eat?

The first stop on our taco tour was one of Daniella’s favourite stalls and one she said her family have been going to for years.

As we approached the taqueria, we could hear the loud buzz of chatter and laughter as families, couples and clusters of friends stood in circles scooping their choice of toppings onto their taco and shovelling them down before they cooled.

I went for Daniella’s recommendation of fried huitlacoche (a peculiar fungus that grows on corn), cheese, potato, pickled white onion, slithers of cactus and green salsa on top of a freshly cooked corn tortilla. I bit into the warm taco and could instantly taste the corn, which is so synonymous with Central American cuisine. The soft huitlacoche was a bluey, grey colour with a root of yellow and tasted strongly of mushrooms, whilst the sliced cactus tasted like a runner bean. I took a slurp of my sweet agua de horchata, a traditional cold rice and milk-based drink, to cool my mouth from the spicy salsa.

Tacos Al Pastor

Next, Daniella took us to try the king of tacos in Mexico City – Tacos Al Pastor.

Al Pastor came to Mexico with Lebanese immigrants in the early 19th century and is made up of slices of pork marinaded in dried chillies, spices, and pineapple, which is then cooked like shawarma on a rotating spit. The meat is then chiseled into a tortilla and sprinkled with a mixture of finely chopped onions, coriander, and diced pineapple on top to finish.

Being the only vegetarian in the group, Daniella took me to Por Siempre Vegana Taqueria, a vegan food truck across the road, which has created vegan versions of all of the Mexican classic street foods – hallelujah! The meat substitutes were incredible and it was great to feel included whilst everyone else enjoyed their Al Pastor. This is definitely one to try for any veggies or vegans even if it’s not on this tour!

Conclusion

Kactus’ taco walking tour was such a highlight of my time in Mexico City. I learnt so many great tips and tricks about eating at street food stalls, which I’ve been using a lot throughout my time in Mexico and was also able to try some amazing local ingredients I wouldn’t have known about otherwise. If you’re a foodie, this tour should be at the top of your to-do list in Mexico City!

Please note: this is not a sponsored post and all thoughts and opinions are my own.

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Five Unmissable Spots in Bocas Del Toro, Panama https://lydiagiles.com/five-unmissable-spots-in-bocas-del-toro-panama Fri, 06 Jul 2018 22:21:14 +0000 http://myculturecraving.com/?p=6857 I’d heard a lot about Bocas del Toro in Panama on the Central American gringo grapevine.

Stories of quiet islands engulfed by still, crystalline turquoise waters. Untouched lush jungle and tangled mangroves sprouting from the silky Caribbean ocean. Colourful coral and starfish as intriguing and tranquil as the sloths in the trees above.

They were tales I knew I had to experience for myself and quickly added Panama onto my Central and South American itinerary.

Floating just off of the Costa Rican/Panama border, Bocas del Toro is an archipelago made up of approximately 250 islands and islets, which can be easily reached by boat from the nearby town of Almirante.

You can reach the islands in around 6 hours from Puerto Viejo in Costa Rica and can stay on a number of different islands, which all offer an abundance of jaw-dropping beaches, jungle and wildlife to uncover.

I spent just over a week in Bocas del Toro, spending four nights on Bastimentos Island and four on the main island, Colón.

If you’re planning a trip to this slice of Caribbean paradise, here are my five spots not to miss!

Stay at Palmar Beach Lodge on Red Frog Beach, Bastimentos

For our first 4 nights in Bocas del Toro we stayed at Palmar Beach Lodge on Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos Island, which I would highly recommend ($16.50 a night for a bed in a dorm room).

Situated directly on the beach yet, nestled in Bastimentos’ dense jungle, Palmar has a real primitive feel about it but with the addition of all the amenities you need for an extremely comfortable stay. They offer bungalows, dorm rooms, private tents, yoga, a high-quality restaurant, a free shuttle from the main island twice a day and free entry to the island ($5 if visited on a trip). Palmar Beach Lodge is like a luxury retreat but at a backpacker budget.

Due to its rough and dangerous tide, Red Frog Beach isn’t the postcard-perfect Caribbean beach you see in all the pictures (don’t worry you’ll find these later). However, it is home to the island’s famous poisonous red frogs, which are best spotted at dusk and dawn.

Polo Beach, Bastimentos

After searching long and hard for ‘that’ beach that would give me a true Caribbean experience, I well and truly found it on Polo Beach on Bastimentos.

Located around a 40 minute walk from Palmar Beach Lodge, Polo Beach will blow you away with its contrast to Red Frog. Still blue water spattered with inky patches of coral, dusty white sand and only a few other faces in sight, it was the exact beach bliss I had been searching for.

Despite this beaches beauty, its true selling point is its local resident, Mr Polo himself, who will undoubtedly introduce himself and welcome you into his home for a lunch of whatever fresh fish he has in that day. We were lucky enough to indulge in a delicious helping of lobster, mussels and rice, washed down with an iced cold beer, all for a bargain $6.

If you’re on Bastimentos Island, a visit to Polo Beach is a cultural experience you don’t want to miss.

Visit Old Bank, Bastimentos

If you’re after a true taste of the Caribbean culture in Panama, Old Bank on Bastimentos Island is the place to go. A small town with very little in terms of tourism, Old Bank is a great place to just wander around and observe the day-to-day lives of the locals who call this tropical island home. 

Team a walk around the town with a trip up into the mountains to visit organic farm and cafe, Up in the Hill. A homemade brownie and iced coffee will be well deserved after the sweaty walk up and all ingredients used are freshly grown there themselves.

Starfish Beach, Colón

Starfish Beach is quite possibly the most beautiful beach I have ever laid eyes on. 

Located around a half an hour drive from Bocas Town on Colón Island, Starfish Beach (aka. Playa Estrella) is renowned for its perfectly clear, gentle water and its abundance of starfish visible through the translucent sea. 

Shuttle buses run from the square in Bocas Town and cost approx $2.50 each way. Hop off the bus and weave past pristine deserted beaches shaded by drooping palm trees until you reach Starfish Beach around 10/15 minutes from the drop off point.

There are a few seafood restaurants and bars on the beach for when you’ve worked up an appetite/thirst for a beer however, the octopus dish we tried was rather overpriced for what we had so choose your restaurant wisely. 

Go on a boat trip

A trip to Bocas del Toro would not be complete without taking to the water at least once. 

There are lots of different companies in Bocas offering boat trips to different islands within the archipelago. Most trips include a visit to a spot where you can see dolphins, a mangrove entwined with sloths, the famous deserted Zapatilla Island, snorkelling opportunities and lunch (around $25-45 depending on the company). 

We went on a day trip offered by Selina hostel, which was $30 each and included all the above as well as, beer and rum – a nice lil’ addition when we were sprawled on a deserted Caribbean island channeling our inner Jack Sparrow. 

Bocas Del Toro really surprised me. Due to all the rave reviews I’d heard, I was expecting it to be swarming with tourists however, what I found was quite the opposite. Although it has definitely established itself on the Central American backpacker route, it has still retained its striking scenery, colourful Caribbean culture and varied wildlife, giving any traveller a real sense of utopia when they visit.

Make sure these islands are squeezed into any Central American itinerary.

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Review: Driftwood Glamping and Boutique Hotel in Nosara, Costa Rica https://lydiagiles.com/review-driftwood-glamping-and-boutique-hotel-in-nosara-costa-rica Fri, 15 Jun 2018 10:03:29 +0000 http://myculturecraving.com/?p=6811 As I lulled in an infinity pool with a rum spiked fresh fruit smoothie in hand overlooking a family of howler monkeys dancing from branch to branch along a canopy of jungle, I felt like I’d reached the peak of hollibobs relaxation.

Welcome to Driftwood Glamping and Boutique Hotel…

Located in Nosara, a small hippie surf town on the west coast of the Nicoya peninsula in Costa Rica, Driftwood encapsulates all that is Nosara.

A maze of bumpy dust tracks swallowed by overgrown, dense jungle and peppered with boutique hotels, surf shacks and restaurants, this areas has a rustic, off-the-beaten-track feel and is the perfect spot to slow things down on any Costa Rican adventure.

Nosara’s two main beaches – Guiones and Pelada – offer long stretches of soft, golden sand lined with vibrant jungle and prime waves for avid surfers.

Delve a few minutes deeper into the jungle and you’ll be lead to Driftwood.

Nestled at the top of a bumpy, dirt track just off of the quieter of the two beaches – Pelada – Driftwood is new on the Nosara scene and offers two desirable options for your stay…

Either glamping in one of their unique bell tents equipped with squishy double bed (and single bed if you book a triple room), fluffy pillows, faux fur beanbag and en suite toilet (approx $38.50 a night).

Or, one of their wonderful, bright and airy boutique rooms fittingly strewn in driftwood and minimalistic decor (approx $68 a night).

We were originally booked into a tent however, after one night of being somewhat… hot, Mum made the executive decision to upgrade to a room with air con. The tents were lovely but in 35 degree heat the fan just didn’t cut it, so keep this in mind when booking.

The vibe at Driftwood was so relaxing we had no qualms in rolling out of bed and making the few steps from our room to the pool area in our PJs for a morning smoothie bowl from the juice bar.

Before spending the day floating around in the serene infinity pool only emerging in search of food.

The accommodation doesn’t serve food other than breakfast therefore, a walk along the beach is needed to find lunch and dinner. Luckily, there are a handful of restaurants within walking distance, one of which is a must visit – La Luna.

Hidden at the far end of Pelada Beach, La Luna hogs the best sunset spot on the beach and is the perfect place to stop off for a quick sunset cocktail or, a three course meal with bubbles.

Sprinkled with fairylights, palm trees and candles, La Luna’s outdoor patio area is where all the action happens and looks like it’s been lifted straight out of the wedding scene in Mamma Mia. Both Lizzie (sis) and I agreed it would be a dreamy wedding venue…

Triumphing in everything from simple Mediterranean platters and salads to gourmet pizzas and seafood, this restaurant won’t leave you disappointed. We ate here three times in seven days and each time we came away giddy with content (and prosecco).

You can walk from La Luna to Driftwood in around 20 minutes. And don’t worry about the darkness, the fireflies will guide the way to your room where you can sleep off your inevitable food baby.

Driftwood is a peaceful haven snuggled deep in the Costa Rican jungle. Its relaxing vibe, picture-perfect infinity pool and chic decor is unbeatable and comes at a bargain price in comparison to other accommodation options in Costa Rica. Book your glamping tent or boutique room now here.

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A Guide to Exploring Manuel Antonio National Park, Costa Rica https://lydiagiles.com/a-guide-to-exploring-manuel-antonio-national-park-costa-rica Fri, 08 Jun 2018 21:33:38 +0000 http://myculturecraving.com/?p=6697 Manuel Antonio is a lush National Park located around 3 hours south of San José.

Renowned for its cotton wool white beaches framed by vibrant green jungle, sleepy sloths and white-faced monkeys, it’s no surprise that this area is swarming with binocular-clad tourists all wanting to get a sighting of Sid the sloth.

Despite the off-putting compact streets of overpriced, American influenced restaurants and souvenir shops, Manuel Antonio is still 100% worth a visit. The park’s dense forest is home to an impressive number of different mammals, birds and insects, making unique wildlife sightings a high possibility and Manuel Antonio beach is said to be the most beautiful beach in Costa Rica.

If you’re planning a trip to Manuel Antonio, here’s my guide to getting the most out of your time there.

How to get there?

There are multiple ways of getting to the National Park. We rented a car from San José and drove down, which was a simple and easy drive and took around 3 hours.

Alternatively, you can catch a bus (Tracopa seems to be the most popular bus company to use to get around Costa Rica) or, you can book a shuttle, which will pick you up and drop you off at your hotel door to door. The shuttle is quicker than the bus however, this convenience obviously comes at a premium (approx $30-$54, company dependant).

Where to stay?

There are a few different options of where you can stay when exploring Manuel Antonio.

Quepos is the nearest ‘main town’ to the National Park and is where you’re likely to be dropped off if you get the bus. Although it has a lot of restaurants, bars and hotels to keep you busy, there isn’t much reason to stay there when you can stay closer to the park in Manuel Antonio.

From Quepos it’s one straight (yet windy) road packed with hotels, restaurants and shops to the National Park (around a 15 minute trip). The accommodation closer to Quepos benefits from unbelievable views across the ocean whilst the hotels closer to the park benefit from being walking distance to the beach.

Like everything in Costa Rica, accommodation in Manuel Antonio ‘ent cheap. We stayed at Pasado Jungle Bungalows, which was located next door to the park entrance. It was in an excellent location and the staff were friendly and helpful however, it was very overpriced for what it was.

Hostel-wise, both Selina and Hostel Plinio were recommended to me by other backpackers along the way.

How to see the park?

Entrance to the National Park is $16 and gives you access to the park for the whole day. Only 800 people are allowed in the park at a time so I would advise arriving early to avoid delays. You can only take sandwiches and fruit in the park for lunch so be sure to ask your hotel to make you a pack lunch the day before or buy supplies to make your own.

The park is very well established with multiple, well-built trails. They have also recently built a new, universal trail, which allows wheelchair access from the entrance all the way down to the beach.

I am usually very anti guides and tours however, in Manuel Antonio a guide is invaluable.

We booked a guide through our hotel for two hours (8am-10am) for $20 plus the $16 entrance and thanks to Mau’s beady eyes and excellent knowledge, we were able to spot two and three-toed sloths, toucans, bats, white faced monkeys, deer, frogs, raccoons and many more insects and plants native to Costa Rica.

We also benefited from our guides’ high quality telescope, which allowed us to see the animals in more detail up close when they were hiding in the trees. If we hadn’t had a guide, we would probably have only spotted a lizard and a raccoon as it tried to steal our lunch…

Most guides will slowly lead you along the sloth trail and then leave you at Manuel Antonio beach where you can then follow alternative trails to explore more of the park or, relax on the silky soft sand. In addition to the main beach, there is also a quieter beach a 2 minute walk further down the track, which is equally beautiful yet with half the number of tourists.

Be careful of the currents on both of these beaches, I lost a pair of sunglasses and my dignity to an aggressive wave. R.I.P. Raybans…

Manuel Antonio offers unrivaled flora and fauna and is a must visit if you’re wanting to spot the abundance of wildlife Costa Rica has to offer. Have you ever visited Manuel Antonio National Park? What would you add to this guide?

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